Top 15 Frequently Asked Questions

Q1: ALUMINUM-ZINC:  REPLACED ANODE TO REMOVE ODOR.  IT HAS COME BACK.  ANY HELP?

A1: By changing your anode rod to Aluminum-Zinc, you have already started with the simplest, cheapest and most likely cause of odor due to hydrogen sulfide gas. Some wells have so much anaerobic bacteria, that the small amount of Zinc in the Aluminum-Zinc anode rod can't keep up.

I'd like to suggest a few things that have helped me personally as well as many of our customers.  Regardless of which route you choose to take, leave your Aluminum-Zinc Anode Rod in place!

1. If you haven't already, re-add about 32 oz of hydrogen peroxide to your water heater, through the anode rod port. Yes, this means that you have to remove the anode rod again (but it will come back out much easier than the first time)

2. If you have a water softener, look at the manual or search for it on the internet. Look at the section that asks for the hardness of your water and be sure the settings are in alignment with the manufacturers specifications. This and not allowing your salt tank to run out of salt often solves any remaining problems after the anode has been replaced with an aluminum zinc alloy. Your softener’s owners manual also will have a section on sanitizing your softener. This is another way to reduce or eliminate bacteria in your water heater therefore reducing or eliminating rotten egg odor. It’s super straightforward, easy and highly recommended by me and your manufacturer.

3. The next steps would be to chlorinate your well. Be sure to check if it’s legal in your well’s location. This is also cheap and easy. I can't recommend a particular method because there are risks adding chlorine to your drinking water. Simply using your best judgement is more than sufficient to keep you safe. I would watch a few YouTube videos and get comfortable with the well-chlorination procedure. It's not more difficult than changing your anode rod, just different. If you can replace your own anode rod, you can chlorinate your well.

4. If chlorination doesn't work, treatment systems are often the next step. Let's hope this is not the direction you will have to go because there is cost and maintenance associated with every system.  If you do consider treatment systems, do your own research and get a minimum of three quotes or prices. Unfortunately there are some folks in the business that are more than willing to over-sell their products.

Q2: ALUMINUM-ZINC:  IS THIS RECOMMENDED FOR USE WHEN ALSO USING A WATER SOFTENER?

A2: Yes, our Aluminum-Zinc anode rod is a remedy for the rotten egg smell created by the combination of a water softener and the factory installed a Magnesium anode rod. The Aluminum-Zinc anode rod doesn't have the same reaction as the Magnesium anode rod that's currently in your water heater. The Magnesium anode rod reacts with the slightly salty water and produces a condition that is perfect for anaerobic bacterial growth. Our Aluminum-Zinc anode rod stops this reaction, and also acts to control future bacteria.

Q3: ALUMINUM-ZINC:  IS AN ALUMINUM-ZINC ROD BETTER THAN MAGNESIUM FOR HARD WATER SOURCE (WELL)?

A3:  If simply extending the life of your water heater is your goal, Magnesium is a slightly better option but the difference in protection is negligible. Both Aluminum/Zinc and Magnesium protect your water heater using the exact same principle. Our Aluminum/Zinc Anode rod is best when there is a rotten egg odor found exclusively in your hot water or when a water softener is in use (private or public).

Q4: ALUMNINUM-ZINC:  WILL THIS WORK ON CITY MUNICIPAL WELL ATER THAT IS ABOUT 20 GRAINS HARD?

A4: Yes, this anode rod will protect your water heater regardless of how hard your water is. If you are asking, will this help remove rotten egg holders from my water? Yes, the Aluminum component the alloy won't react the same way your Magnesium anode rod does and therefore won't produce as much hydrogen gas. The Zinc component has a anti-bacterial affect that controls the bacteria responsible for the rotten egg odor.

Q5: ALUMINUM-ZINC:  IT GETS RID OF THE STINK BUT DOES IT HELP EXTEND THE LIFE OF THE TANK, LIKE CORRO-PROTECT POWERED ANODE ROD? 

A5: Yes, the same cathodic principle is in play for both electrically powered and analog anode rods.

Q6: ALUMINUM-ZINC & MAGNESIUM:  BOUGHT THIS ANODE ROD AND CANNOT GET THE OLD ONE LOOSE VIA HAND METHOD, WATER HEATER TURNS.  WHAT ELECTRIC WRENCH DO YOU RECOMMEND?

A6:  Hi, I agree, Anode Rods are very tight and an electric impact can make quick work out of removing them. You will need an impact that is 1/2 inch drive and an amp rating of 7.0 or higher. A cheap impact will do the trick but if you think you might want to change some semi tires in the future, the sky is the limit as far as price goes. Porter Cable, Chicago Electric and DeWalt all make good quality impacts for the cost. Type "1/2 inch drive electric impact" into Amazon's search bar and many will appear. If you have a Harbor Freight nearby, they sell a Chicago Electric version that is about as cheap as they come.

Q7: ALUMINUM-ZINC & MAGNESIUM:  WHAT IS THE DIAMETER OF THE ANODE?  ISN’T THAT IMPORTANT TO KNOW?

A7:  Yes, great question! The diameter is 3/4". This is important because the larger the diameter, the longer the anode rod will last. Most water heater manufacturers use a 3/4" diameter anode rod. Our anode rod is designed to be a direct replacement for the factory installed anode.

Q8: ALUMINUM-ZINC & MAGNESIUM:  WILL THE WIRING INSIDE THE HINGES DETERIORATE TOO SOON?  I DON’T WANT IT BREAKING BEFORE THE ROD NEEDS TO BE REPLACED AND DROPPING INTO THE TANK.

A8:  Our connectors are made from 304 stainless steel aircraft cable and don't deteriorate at all. The small connectors on each end of the cable are made of brass coated with zinc. All of these materials last far longer than the sacrificial material attached to them. The only time the connectors break, and it can happen, as if the About Fluid anode rod is removed with an impact powered wrench and the installer spins the anode so fast as it unthreads and tangles up like a knot in the tank and tangles itself so tight as to twist the steel core right off the end of one of the worn rod sections. After the anode rod is loose, just spin it out like someone who cares about their home appliances :-) the fact that you are asking this question tells me that you'll be fine.

Q9: ALUMINUM-ZINC & MAGNESIUM:  MY CURRENT ANODE ROD IS 52 INCHES.  DO YOU MAKE AND SELL 52 INCH ANODE RODS?

A9: No, we don't manufacture a 52 inch rod. Do you have a 75 gallon water heater?  If so, and you want the full length, I believe there are some companies that make them. The problem can be that the 52 inch rods that are sold, when measured can be 44 inches as well.  A 44 inch rod will protect the same as a slightly larger rod because electricity moves in all directions and not simply adjacent to the rods angle.

Q10: ALUMINUM-ZINC:  I DON’T REALLY HAVE A ROTTEN EGG SMELL PROBLEM.  IS THE MAGNESIUM A BETTER CHOICE OR IS ALUMINUM-ZINC STILL GOOD?

A10: Magnesium provides slightly better protection from corrosion than Aluminum. If you don't suffer from rotten egg smelling water, use the About Fluid Magnesium Anode Rod Kit.

Q11: ALUMINUM-ZINC:  I INSTALLED THIS 4 WEEKS AGO.  RECENTLY MY HOT WATER LINE HAS AIR SPUTTERING OUT WHENEVER I USE IT.  IS THIS A SIDE EFFECT OF MG VS ALUMINUM? 

A11: Rest assured, the anode rod that you placed in your water heater, won't affect the piping at all and there's no reason to panic thinking you may have to replace that again. :-)  I suspect that during the installation, a pipe may have been inadvertently moved, bumped, bent, or otherwise angered. Installing the anode rod is difficult as I'm sure you well know. Sometimes it's easy to twist the plumbing system while working on a water heater with the kind of torque required to break pipe fittings free. The type of material your anode rod is made of won't affect your plumbing, it will, however, prolong the life of your water heater tremendously. Without them a water heater only lasts about 6-7 years.

Q12: MAGNESIUM:  WHAT % PURITY IS THE MAGNESIUM? 

A12: The Magnesium is about 96 - 98 percent magnesium with trace amounts of Aluminum and zinc. If you plan to use this for a project requiring pure magnesium, I would recommend looking for a science-grade ingot. If this is to replace the existing anode rod that was installed from your water heater's factory, this is a great replacement and is representative of its makeup.

Q13: MAGNESIUM:  IS THE ROD GMADNESIUM OR ALUMINUM-MAGNESIUM ALLOW?  DOES IT ADD ANYTHING BEYOND MAGNESIUM IF USED FOR DRINKING WATER?

A14: This anode rod is made of 96 to 98 percent magnesium and there is a chance there are trace amounts of Aluminum and Zinc that make up the remainder, just like the anode rod that comes installed from the factory in water heaters. If you plan on drinking your hot tap water for hot beverages, use your own judgement and do some research (you may find other dangers that are more risky). If you don't drink your hot tap water and are concerned about the cold water, run the cold water for 2 to 3 seconds to flush the faucet in case the last user used hot water.

Q15: ALUMINUM-ZINC & MAGNESIUM:  IT COMES WITHOUT SOCKET AND CAP, BUT WHAT ARE THEY?

A15:  Our "complete" kit comes with both a 1-1/16" Deep-Well Chrome Vanadium Steel Six Point Socket, as well as a Brass Hose Thread Cap for the drain at the bottom of your water heater. Our complete kits of course have , Teflon tape and step by step instructions.  We also offer our Anode Rods with just the Rod, Teflon tape and step by step instructions. Be sure to select the kit that best suits you.